DRAGINJA MASKARELI
istoričar umetnosti, Muzej primenjene umetnosti, Beograd
draginja.maskareli@mpu.rs

TRADICIJA I MODA: ženska obuća iz XIX i s početka XX veka u kolekciji Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu
TRADITION AND FASHION: Women's Footwear in the 19th and the Beginning of the 20th Century from the Collection of The Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade

Zbornik 9/2013 (Muzej primenjene umetnosti), strana 93-101

UDK:
7.05:685.3 ; 069.51(497.11)
ID 203979532

Apstrakt:
Ženska obuća iz XIX i s početka XX veka čuva se u zbirci Odseka za tekstil i kostim Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu. Sačuvani primerci obuće nošeni su u Srbiji i u regionu; oni prate proces transformacije odevanja građanske klase na ovom prostoru tokom XIX veka, od tradicionalne orijentalne nošnje ka evropskoj modi. Među sačuvanim predmetima nalazi se obuća koja se nosila kao deo gradske nošnje (papuče, mestve i nanule), kao i modna obuća (cipele i čizme), nošena uglavnom u svečanim prilikama, ali i kao deo svakodnevnog odevanja. Pojedini primerci modne obuće nose oznake evropskih proizvođača, ali i poznatih beogradskih modno-galanterijskih trgovina koje su uvozile i prodavale luksuzne modne predmete.

Ključne reči:
Muzej primenjene umetnosti, obuća XIX veka, obuća XX veka, Srbija, cipele

Summary:
The Department of Textile and Costume of The Museum of Applied Arts in Belgrade holds a collection of women's footwear from the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. The preserved footwear items were worn in Serbia and the region and they reflect the process of transformation of the Serbian bourgeoisie clothing from traditional Oriental into European fashion during the 19th century. The items include not only the footwear made by traditional shoemakers worn as a part of urban dress: slippers, mestve and clogs, but also fashion footwear: shoes and boots mainly for special occasions, but worn casually, as well. Flat women's shoes from the first part of the 19th century, walking boots from the turn of the 20th century and evening leather and satin shoes with “Louis heel” from the early 20th century, can be found among preserved fashion footwear items. Some of those from the beginning of the 20th century were made not only by European shoemakers as H. Bauer and Bally, but also famous Belgrade high-end fashion stores importing and selling luxury fashion goods: “Kosta Nikolić i drug“, “Savčić i Nikolić“ and “Lazarević i Stojankić”. Most of the collection items were shown on “Oh, Those Shoes!” exhibition held in the Museum in 2013. Starting March 2015, the entire collection will be accessible on Europeana Fashion portal as a part of the project the Museum of Applied Art is taking part in as one of 22 partners from twelve European countries.

Ovde možete preuzeti PDF članka (243 KB)