DRAGINJA MASKARELI
art historian, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade

VENČANE HALJINE U SRBIJI U DRUGOJ POLOVINI XIX I POČETKOM XX VEKA IZ KOLEKCIJE MUZEJA PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI U BEOGRADU
WEDDING DRESSES IN SERBIA IN THE SECOND HALF OF THE 19th AND THE BEGINNING OF 20th CENTURY FROM THE COLLECTION OF THE MUSEUM OF APPLIED ART IN BELGRADE

Journal 7/2011 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 31-40

UDC:
391.2:392.5(497.11)"1878/1914" ; 745.52:069.51(497.11)
ID 188181004

Abstract (original language):
Odsek za tekstil i kostim Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu predstavlja devet venčanih haljina iz svoje kolekcije. Reč je o haljinama koje su nastale u periodu između 1878. i 1914. godine i koje su pripadnice srpskog građanskog društva nosile kao venčane haljine, ali i u drugim prilikama vezanim za obred venčanja (npr. veridba). Među sačuvanim haljinama nalaze se bindali (bindall) haljine karakteristične za osmanski kostim, zatim haljine sašivene u Srbiji po uzoru na evropsku modu, kao i haljine sašivene u Evropi (Venecija, Beč, Pariz). Osvrćući se na proces transformacije odevanja srpske građanske klase od orijentalnog ka evropskom modnom obrascu, cilj ovog teksta je da haljine iz kolekcije sagleda u stilskom, društvenom i istorijskom kontekstu vremena u kome su nastale.

Key words: (original language)
venčane haljine, građanski kostim, kolekcija, moda, Muzej primenjene umetnosti, odevanje, Srbija XIX vek, Srbija XX vek

Summary:
The clothing of the Serbian middle-class, or bourgeoisie, in the 19th century went through a process of transformation from Oriental garments to European modern costume. The European influence in the clothing of the Serbian bourgeoisie is evident from the 1850s and dominant after the 1870s. The nine dresses kept in the female costume collection of the Costume and Textile Department of the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade can be observed within the context of this process of transformation. They were worn by middle-class women as wedding dresses or on other occasions related to weddings (e.g. engagement celebrations). Among these preserved dresses, dating from 1878 to 1914, there are bindalli dresses characteristic of Ottoman attire, then dresses made in Serbia after the patterns of European fashion, as well as dresses made in Europe.

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